Wild Walks: The West Highland Way

In this Wild Walks post, we explore the West Highland Way – Scotland’s most popular long-distance hike. The highlands of Scotland are (in my humble opinion) some of the wildest and most beautiful landscapes in Britain. If you’re looking for a multi-day hike that’s easy to access and allows you to explore the best that Scotland has to offer, this is it.

So what is the West Highland Way?

The West Highland Way is a 96-mile (154-kilometer) one-way, long-distance walk between Milngavie (a small town north of Glasgow) and Fort William.

Sounds good – tell me more!

Although the West Highland Way can be completed in either direction, it’s most commonly walked from south to north, beginning in Milngavie. In this direction you leave the city and towns of the lowlands behind as you walk deeper into the mountains, finishing at the foot of Britain’s highest mountain: Ben Nevis. Along the way you get to experience some of the best of Scotland’s wild landscapes, from The Bonnie Banks of Loch Lomond to the rugged wilderness of Rannoch Moor.

How long does it take?

Most people take 7-8 days to complete the West Highland Way, though it is possible to do it in less if you’re fit. If you’re after a real challenge, you could try the West Highland Way Race or the West Highland Way Challenge Race and attempt the full 96-mile trail in under 35 hours.

Highlights of the West Highland Way

Conic Hill provides one of the most spectacular views along the Way. Situated on the faultline between the Lowlands and the Highlands, it’s well worth taking a short detour to the summit to take in the views of Loch Lomond.

The beauty of Loch Lomond has inspired many writers and artists over centuries. The West Highland Way skirts round the east of the lake and is one of the tougher sections of the walk. It’s also isolated with no road access, so make sure you’re able to complete this section of the walk in a day.

Take in a bit of history at Tyndrum Community Woodland. On your way through, look out for the bench commemorating the Battle of Dalrigh, where Robert the Bruce was defeated by the English in 1306. A little further on you pass a lochan (small lake) where legend has it that Robert and his men abandoned their swords to hasten their escape.

Rannoch Moor is a desolate landscape that’s home to red deer, grouse and the Scottish midge. On a clear day, you’re rewarded with widespread views of the surrounding mountains, but when the mist and rain roll in it can feel truly remote.

Glencoe is often considered one of the most spectacular and beautiful places in Scotland. Although the West Highland Way doesn’t actually run through the valley, the climb up the Devil’s Staircase provides spectacular views of Buachaille Etive Mor which stands sentinel at the entrance to the Glen.

The long climb out of Kinlochleven rewards you with a great view at the top. From here the path winds its way through the Mamores before dropping down into the beautiful Glen Nevis. Then it’s a short walk to the finish line in Fort William.

How fit do I need to be?

You’ll need to be reasonably fit to manage consecutive days of walking with a rucksack. However, if you take it at a leisurely pace and employ a baggage service to carry your overnight kit, it should be achievable by most keen hikers. If you’re planning on camping along the Way and carrying your kit make sure you train for the hike with a pack of similar size and weight.

What about accommodation?

There’s a variety of accommodation along the West Highland Way ranging from campsites to guest houses and hotels. Accommodation in some areas may be scarce, and it’s definitely worth booking ahead during peak season (the summer months). If you’re planning a winter expedition, be aware that many accommodation providers close for the winter months.

Although wild camping is legal in Scotland, the Loch Lomond area has restrictions in place. The Park Authority website has further information.

Transport and logistics

You can easily get to the start and finish of the West Highland Way by train. Glasgow is easily accessible from most UK mainline railway stations, or you can fly to Glasgow airport and get a bus into the city centre. From Glasgow, there’s a direct bus and train service to Milngavie.

There are a couple of trains a day back to Glasgow from Fort William. The railway line runs in part alongside the West Highland Way, with stations at Ardlui, Crianlarich, Tyndrum and Bridge of Orchy.

Find out more

• The official West Highland Way website has information and advice on the route, accommodation and the natural history and communities of the landscape you pass through.
• The Walk Highlands website has a detailed description and photographs of the route.
• Harvey maps sell a lightweight single sheet, 1:40,000 scale map of the Way. This saves having to buy multiple OS maps to cover the different stages of the walk.
• Various companies offer baggage transfers between your overnight accommodation, with prices around £40-45 per bag. AMS Scotland, Travel-lite and Ginger Routes all offer a similar service, and run from Easter to October.
• If you prefer two wheels to two feet, you can also mountain bike the West Highland Way. It’s not an easy ride, and you’ll end up shouldering your bike for part of the route. There are quite a few write-ups by bikers who’ve completed the challenge, including this comprehensive description on the Trail Scotland site. If you prefer some back up support, TrailBrakes offer a 6-day link up of the West Highland Way and the Great Glen Way taking you from Glasgow up to Inverness.

If you enjoyed this post, you may like the others in my Wild Walks series: the Dales Way and the Routeburn Track. Got a favourite walk you’d like me to cover? Get in touch and let me know, or drop a note in the comments below.