Tag: trekking

Why I Walk

by  on  in Musings • 1 Comment

Me hiking in Scotland

I walk to feel the warmth of the sunshine on my skin. To feel the rain and wind lash my cheek, the elements batting me around as if I‘m a small toy in their giant game.

I walk to hear the birds chattering in the hawthorn bushes and calling to each other across the woods and moors. I walk to catch glimpses of hidden creatures. Voles and field mice, stoats and deer, and occasionally, at night, a fox or badger.

Sometimes I walk with purpose, to reach a destination. The top of a hill or mountain, most likely. A viewpoint from where I can survey the world or what little of it I’m allowed to see. But a walk does not need a destination and sometimes I just let my feet carry me where they will.

I walk to give myself thinking time. To mull over a problem or reassess my priorities. It’s as if the movements of my legs turn cogs in my head that power my brain to find a solution to whatever’s bothering me. The answer does not always come on the walk, but the walk is part of the process of discovering it.

But, there are also times when I’m content to think about nothing. To just let thoughts flow through my mind like water trickling down a beck. This too, is what walking is all about.

When I get angry or frustrated, I can feel trapped in the house. This place where I should be doing this or should be doing that; where I haven’t done this, or have failed at that. Walking is my escape. A chance to walk away from the anger inside and be calm again. To return to work with a fresh state of mind.

I walk to forget about the problems of the world. To put aside worries and cares, particularly those that I have no control over. To realise that I don’t have to change the world, I just have to do my bit.

I walk to feel the ache in my muscles and the pain in my feet. The focus that comes after you’ve been trudging for hours. How your world narrows to focus on just one thing: putting one foot in front of the other. It’s almost like a meditation. Left, right, left, right. There is just you and the footpath in front of you.

But, perhaps most of all, I walk to be outside. To breathe fresh air and walk in the beautiful countryside that we’re blessed with in the UK. Whether it’s a stroll through my local woods, a walk up over the moors or a hike up a remote Scottish mountain, walking makes me truly appreciate how lucky we are to have these beautiful landscapes. And why we must protect them.

Walking outside makes me feel alive. It reminds me of why life is precious. It makes me happy.

That is why I walk.

How to Pack for an Active Holiday in a Carry-on Bag

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Man with rucksack on train station platform

One bag to rule them all?

If you’re travelling on a budget, you can still get your hands on low-cost flights. That is, until you look at the extras. If you’re wanting to check-in a suitcase for your holiday you could end up doubling the cost of your flight. Travelling with just a carry-on bag means you have extra cash for a nice meal out, expensive museum tickets or many, many ice creams. But can you really pack everything you need for an active holiday into your hand luggage?

In most cases, the answer is yes. If you’re planning a hiking, cycling, running or multi-sport holiday, a lot of the time you’ll be able to fit everything you need into a small carry-on bag. The main exception is rock climbing holidays. As you can’t hire climbing gear (most climbers wouldn’t want to even if you could) and there’s no way you can fit ropes, hardware, harnesses and shoes into a carry-on bag, you’re going to need to check-in at least one bag. But similar principles apply. My husband and I usually pack all of our climbing gear into one duffle bag that we check-in and take everything else in our hand luggage.

If you’re wanting to avoid being ripped-off by airline baggage fees, then check out these top tips for packing for an active holiday in a carry-on bag.

Plan What You’re Going to Do on Holiday

You don’t have to plan every day of your holiday in detail (though for some people this is part of the fun!) but knowing what activities you’re going to be doing will help you decide what to pack and what to leave behind.

If you’re going on a cycling holiday, or a hiking trip then this is pretty straightforward. But if you like to do a bit of everything then it’s worth considering what you’ll actually have time to do so you don’t end up packing a load of stuff you don’t need.

For example, I’m just about to come home from a trip to Genoa. We hadn’t planned exactly what we were going to do before heading out, but we were hoping to have a few days running along the coast, possibly a day hiking in the hills, some sightseeing time and a few trips to the beach. Add into the mix visiting various family and friends in the area and possibly a nice dinner out and that’s a lot of clothing combinations! I decided to take one pair of trail running shoes that could double as hiking shoes, so I could leave my walking boots at home. I chose layers that could be worn together if the weather was cooler and lots of vest tops (as they don’t take up much space and I was hoping it would be warm!).

Wear Your Bulkiest Clothes (and Shoes)

If you’re trying to make the most of your carry-on bag, then you may have to sacrifice style on the plane. It makes sense to wear your bulkiest shoes and clothes to fly in. So, if you’re going on a hiking trip, wear your walking boots on the plane. My bulkiest clothes are typically jeans and jumpers, so I usually wear or carry these on the flight over.

The exception to this is if you’re going on a cycling holiday. No one is going to advocate hobbling through the airport in a pair of SPDs…

Check the Weather Before You Travel

Let’s face it. Packing for travelling to southern Europe in summer is pretty easy. You can be sure that the weather will be hot and sunny and, as summer clothes take less space than winter clothes, you can fit more into your hand luggage. But if you’re travelling during the winter or to a country with a changeable climate (hello, Britain) then packing can be a bit trickier.

Weather forecasts are rarely a hundred percent accurate, but they will give you an indication of what to expect so you can pack accordingly. For example, if it’s looking cool and there’s a lot of rain forecast you may decide to take a rugged waterproof coat, whereas if the weather is likely to be mostly dry you can get away with a light packable jacket.

If you could be faced with all types of weather on your trip then opt for lightweight, warm clothing and layers that can be worn together or separately depending on the temperature.

Merino wool t-shirts are great as many are smart enough to wear around town or even for going out for dinner. Buffs are a packable option if you want something to keep your neck or head warm without packing a woolly hat. A light scarf can have many uses, from keeping you warm in cooler weather to covering your head and shoulders in summer (particularly if you’re visiting religious sites or are in a Muslim country).

Check What’s Available at Your Accommodation

Towels are necessary but bulky. If you get them included with your accommodation, this is ideal. If you don’t then trek towels pack up reasonably small and are definitely a better option than filling half your carry-on bag with a beach towel.

Depending on where you’re staying, you may also have toiletries provided and hair dryers, umbrellas and other useful, but bulky, items. If you’re not sure, it’s always worth asking in advance.

Cut Down on Liquids

One of the challenges of travelling with just hand luggage is fitting all your liquids into that tiny one-litre plastic bag. A set of reusable travel bottles means you can take your favourite toiletries with you without having to buy the expensive travel-sized versions.

If you’re travelling for longer than a few days, it’s often worth buying bulky items such as shower gel, shampoo and toothpaste from the supermarket when you land. If you’re travelling with friends or family, club together to buy large bottles you can share which you will either use up or can leave behind when you go home.

Carrying makeup can be a nightmare when you’re trying to fit everything into your little plastic bag. I know a lot of outdoorsy people would scoff at the idea of carrying makeup on an active holiday, but I’m not one to judge. Whilst I personally wouldn’t take makeup on a six-week hiking expedition, I’ve suffered from bad skin for years and typically take some makeup on a mixed, multi-activity holiday.

My main tips for this would be to try and rationalise what makeup you take, and to travel with men! Often male companions will have a bit extra space in their plastic bags and may agree (if you ask nicely) to carry your deodorant or shampoo so you have a bit more space. Look for products that take up less space; for example, a stick foundation is much more packable than a glass bottle of liquid foundation. There’s a great guide to travel makeup here.

Coconut oil is a super useful multi-purpose product. You can use it as a makeup remover (pack a small face cloth), moisturiser, a replacement for shaving cream and a hair conditioner.

Choose the Right Carry-On Bag

Your choice of carry-on bag will depend on what you’re planning to do on holiday. If you’re on a hiking trip, then you’re likely to take your hiking pack as your hand luggage (make sure it meets airline requirements!). If you’re a keen photographer, then you may opt for a plastic suitcase to protect your camera gear in transit.

My husband and I both have Osprey Quasar packs, which we love! They have a padded laptop sleeve (useful for me as I take my laptop everywhere), lots of pockets for organising gear, a fair bit of space and are comfortable to carry. Hubby usually carries a rolled-up 15-litre running pack in his bag which we use for day runs or hikes.

There’s a great article from Outsider Online which discussed the pros and cons of different types of carry-on bag. Always check to make sure your bag meets the airline’s size requirements – an expensive mistake if you get it wrong.

Everything You Need to Know About Wild Camping

by  on  in Hiking, Microadventures • 0 Comments
Wild camping in front of mountains

One of the best things about wild camping is the view from your front door

Wild camping season is here! The days are drawing out, the sun is shining (sometimes) and the countryside is a million shades of green. If you haven’t already dusted off your tent or bivvy bag, now is the time.

Whether you’re new to wild camping, or just looking for a few new ideas, here’s the lowdown on everything you need to know about wild camping.

What’s the Difference Between Wild Camping and Camping On a Site?

This may be a dumb question. (But there is no such thing as a dumb question, right?) It’s pretty obvious that camping in the wild is going to be a different experience to pitching up in a serviced campsite. There are no showers for one thing. Or toilets. Or other people. If any of these things are essential to your love of camping, then you may want to give wild camping a miss.

On a more serious note, whereas you may pitch your tent in a campsite for a weekend or week-long trip, this is not the done thing when wild camping. The unwritten rule is ‘dusk ‘til dawn’. Pitch up late in the day and move on early the next morning. You’re a wanderer. An explorer. If you pitch up twenty metres from your car and spend the weekend relaxing in your folding chair next to the barbeque, you’re kind of missing the point.

Is Wild Camping legal?

This depends on where you’re looking to camp. In Scotland, wild camping is permitted as long as you follow the Outdoor Access Code. Leave no trace, follow the ‘dawn ‘til’ dusk’ guidelines and don’t get in anyone’s way and you’re unlikely to have a problem.

In the majority of England, Wales and Northern Ireland, you have no legal right to camp wild and technically you should ask the landowner’s permission (except for Dartmoor where you’re allowed to wild camp for one or two nights on open land). However, in many remote areas, wild camping is tolerated as long as you pitch up well away from roads and farmland.

Essential Kit for Wild Camping

Wild camping kit can be as cheap or as expensive as you want to make it. At one end of the scale, you can have a perfectly good night with a cheap plastic bivvy bag, a sleeping bag and a pack of sandwiches. But if you’re planning on making a regular habit of wild camping, or if you’re backpacking then you may want to invest in some specific gear.

Here are the main essentials you’ll need for Wild Camping:

  • Bivvy bag or tent – bivvy bags are perfect for microadventures and single nights out, but if you’re doing a long trip then a small tent can be worth its weight in gold. Particularly if it’s raining.
  • Sleeping bag – even in summer, you’ll have an uncomfortable night without your bag.
  • Sleeping mat – ideally a lightweight, blow up mat such as a Thermarest.
  • Warm jacket – always worth carrying a spare layer, especially if you’re likely to be sitting around in the evening.
  • Torch – to be fair, at this time of year, it’s light late into the evening. As long as you don’t need any night-time toilet stops you may get away without one.
  • Stove and pan – something small and light is ideal.
  • Lighter – you will regret forgetting this. Take two, in case one doesn’t work.
  • Water bottle – if you’re planning on filling up from streams, then one with a wide neck is ideal.
  • Mug – not your best china.
  • Spork – the only implement you need for eating.
  • Food – see below for ideas.
  • Insect repellent – you may consider this optional until you’ve been attacked by the dreaded midge. No one wants to wake up with a face full of itchy bites.
  • Fold up trowel – for your DIY toilet.

You should be able to fit these into a small rucksack, particularly if you’ve taking a bivvy bag rather than a tent. If you’re planning on camping in the woods, then a hammock and tarp is a great alternative to a tent.

Pick Your Perfect Wild Camping Spot

Perfect camping spots rarely appear just when you need them. It’s worth having a rough idea of where you want to camp before setting out.

A couple of things to bear in mind:

  • Popular spots tend to be, well, popular. If you head up to a classic wild camping spot with a beautiful view on a summer Saturday in the Lake District, then you’re unlikely to have it to yourself.
  • Look at the weather forecast before heading out. If it’s due to get windy overnight, you might want to avoid camping on an exposed mountaintop.
  • But if it’s looking calm, an exposed location may help keep the midges at bay!
  • If you need to collect water for cooking or drinking, then plan to camp near a reliable water source. If it’s been a dry summer, small streams may be more of a trickle near their source. If in doubt, fill up your bottles before heading to high ground.

Once you’ve found the area you’re going to spend the night it, spend ten minutes walking around to find a good spot. If the ‘perfect’ spot you picked on the map turns out to be a man-eating bog, then be prepared to look again. Sadly, maps can’t tell you everything.

Cook Up a Feast

Cooking over a campfire can be the epitome of wild camping. But you should only light a fire where it’s safe to do so and there’s no chance of you starting a wildfire. Seriously, wildfires are a big deal. Don’t be the idiot who accidentally starts one. If you do build a fire, make sure you clear it up afterwards. Leave no trace, remember?

Cooking on a stove may be less romantic, but it’s much more practical. And just because you’re wild camping, doesn’t mean you’re restricted to instant noodles. If you’re out for a single night, then pick up some sausages or cheese to include in your feast. Packing for longer trips requires a bit more thought, but there are lots of tasty meals you can cook up in a single pan. If you’re looking for inspiration, the Dirty Gourmet blog has some great recipes.

When Nature Calls

If you’ve grown up in the outdoors, then you can probably pass over this section. But if you’re new to wild camping and spending time away from ‘real’ toilets, then there are some things you need to know.

Firstly, choose a toilet spot well away from water – at least 30m.

Secondly, leaving toilet paper littered around is the ultimate no-no. I see this all the time when I’m out hiking and it really gets on my nerves. There’s no excuse for it. Ideally, bag up toilet paper and sanitary products and take them out with you. Alternatively, you can burn them VERY CAREFULLY (see point above about wildfires) and bury the ashes, or in a worst case scenario, bury them in a hole in the ground.

Finally, if you’re going for more than a wee, dig a hole. What if you’ve forgotten your trowel? Use a stick. Or a rock. Or your bare hands. Just bury it somehow. Got it?

Wild Camping is Supposed to Be Fun

Ok, so camping in the middle of nowhere with no pub or toilets isn’t everyone’s idea of fun. But I suspect if you’re reading this, you’re at least willing to give it a go. If you’re in need of a break from the hectic world of work, people and social media then I can recommend spending a couple of nights wild camping to recharge your batteries.

Of course, this being Britain, the weather is never guaranteed. And to be honest, if it’s lashing rain then camping in any situation isn’t that fun. So keep an eye on the forecast and if it’s looking bad be prepared to change your plans. If you’re determined to go ahead anyway, then check out my top tips for staying dry when camping in the rain.

So, is there anything I missed? Anything else you want to know about wild camping? Drop me a line, or come and hang out on Twitter and let me know. Until next time, amigos!

Why You Should Start Munro Bagging

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Group of walkers on a hill

Anyone know what the collective noun for a group of Munro baggers is?

Have you ever heard of the term ‘Munro bagging’? I’d hazard a guess and say probably not, unless you frequent the Scottish mountains or enjoy spending time in the pub with geeky hikers. But if you like a challenge, love exploring wild places and aren’t afraid of the infamous Scottish midge, then Munro bagging may be for you.

Here’s your guide to Scotland’s ultimate ticklist.

What Is Munro Bagging?

Let’s start with the basics, shall we? A Munro is a Scottish mountain over 3,000ft (that’s 914m in new money). There are 282 of them, at the last count. (This does occasionally change, depending on if someone has built a particularly big cairn, or a mountain has sunk.*) They’re named after Sir Hugh Munro, who first listed the summits in his ‘Munros Tables’ in 1891.

When you touch the top of the hallowed summit cairn of a Munro, you can say you’ve ‘bagged’ it. A Munro bagger is someone who has, or is trying to, ‘bag’ all the Munros. The species can usually be identified by their insistence to reach the top of the mountain despite the full force of Scottish rain, wind or snow. (Possibly all three – this is Scotland after all.) Once you’ve successfully completed all 282 Munros, you gain the official title of ‘Munroist’, or ‘compleatist’ (yes, that is spelt correctly, thank you very much, Grammarly).

*More accurate surveying methods have led to the demotion of a few Munros, notably poor Sgùrr nan Ceannaichean, which was taken off the list in 2009 for being just one metre too short.

Where Are the Munros?

If you hadn’t already guessed, they’re in Scotland. More specifically, in the northern part of Scotland. All 282 Munros lie (stand?) north of the Central Belt (that’s the bit with Glasgow and Edinburgh). There’s a nice map of all the Munros here. And for those who like to have some handy facts at their fingertips, here are the cardinal Munros:

  • Northernmost Munro: Ben Hope, which stands alone in the Flow Country of Sutherland
  • Easternmost Munro: Mount Keen, in the far east of the Cairngorms National Park
  • Southernmost Munro: Ben Lomond, many people’s first Munro, stands sentinel over the bonnie banks o’ Loch Lomond
  • Westernmost Munro: Sgurr na Banachdich, part of the Cuillin Ridge on the Isle of Skye

How to Bag Munros

Well, first you have to get a list of them! Steve Fallon has a handy spreadsheet that you can download from his website, or if you like sticking things on your wall, Harvey May Services do a chart of all the Munros and Corbetts. (I recommend plastering this on your toilet wall as a constant reminder of how many you have left to do.)

Then, it’s just a case of lacing up your boots and heading out into the hills. With appropriate maps, equipment and loyal companions of course. A tip from the wise: if you’re planning on this being a life-term venture, then you may want to look at the order in which you climb the Munros and not leave the longest walk-ins til last.

Speaking of final Munros, tradition has it that you invite all your Munro companions to join you for the walk up your final Munro. On the top of which, you celebrate with champagne, strawberries and chocolate brownies. (I can recommend this recipe as being tried and tested.) So, unless you really want your friends and family to suffer, I’d save a nice easy Munro to the end.

Why bother?

An excellent question. But humans have always loved a good ticklist. I bet even caveman came home to cavewoman and proudly scratched another line on their cave wall to tick off a new beastie he’d managed to kill with his bare hands.

Plus it gives Munro baggers (and their long-suffering families) plenty of excuses for holidays in Scotland. Not that you need an excuse to go to Scotland. (In my humble opinion, one of the most beautiful places on this planet.) But it’s always nice to have a reason to justify another long drive up north to your work colleagues who have just hopped off the plane from Majorca.

But perhaps the main reason is the encouragement to explore some of Scotland’s wildest and remote mountains. Mountains that, if they weren’t over the magic height of 3,000ft, your eyes would skim over on the map. Mountains which, in all likelihood, you’ll complete in solitude, perhaps with the odd mountain bird or deer for company. And on those (admittedly rare) days when the sky is clear, the views from the Scottish mountaintops are some of the most beautiful in the world.

But what if I’ve DONE all the Munros?

I hear your pain. You’ve reached the end of a hard-won race. (In the case of my Dad, a fifty-year project.) And as you gaze into the future, all you see is a vision of lazy days on sun-kissed beaches, a nice cold beer in hand. . .

But where there is a will, there’s always another challenge to be had. If you’re not totally sick of Scotland by now (and why would you be?) get your hands on a list of the Corbetts (that’s Scottish mountains between 2,500 and 3,000ft). There are 222 of them, though you’ve probably got a bit of a head start as you’ll have been up a fair few as part of your Munro marathon. And for the really keen, once you’ve ticked off the Corbetts, you can move on to the Grahams. If that’s not enough then there’s also the Donalds. Phew.

If you want to be really pedantic, you could also tick off the Munro Tops. These are mountains over 3,000ft that in another life would have been a Munro, but due to their overbearing brothers and sisters did not make the list. (Don’t you hate bigger siblings?) I feel quite sorry for these subsidiary summits — so close and yet so far. Perhaps we should start a fan club for the Munro tops. IS ANYONE WITH ME?

Then there are Murdos. These are summits over 3,000ft with at least a 30m (98ft) drop on all sides. (Why not make it 100ft for consistency of measurement? I DON’T KNOW.) So all Munros are Murdos, a Munro Top may or may not be a Murdo, and all Murdos are either Munros or Munro Tops. Are you confused yet? Good, because I am. Anyway, I’m a bit dubious about the Murdos and suspect they were just made up by a forlorn compleatist as an excuse to spend more time in the Scottish hills.

Some interesting facts about Munros

  • The Inaccessible Pinnacle on Skye is the most technically difficult of the Munros, requiring the bagger to complete a rock climb to touch the top and an abseil to descend.
  • Various peaks vie for the title of ‘most remote’, but A’ Mhaighdean and Ruadh Stac Mor come out top of most lists. For most people ticking these peaks will require staying in a bothy or wild camping overnight.
  • The Revd A E Robertson was the first person to complete all the Munros in 1901. However, there is some dispute over his claim, as it’s not certain he reached the summit of Ben Wyvis and he definitely didn’t climb the Inaccessible Pinnacle. If the Rev isn’t allowed to take the number one spot, then he relinquishes it to another man of the church, the Revd Ronald Burn, who completed his round in 1923.
  • Hamish Brown completed the first continuous round of the Munros in 1974 which involved 1,639 miles of walking (and 150 miles on a bike).
  • The speed record for the Munros is held by Stephen Pike who set the record of 39 days and 9 hours in 2010, cycling and kayaking between peaks.
  • Perhaps equally impressive is the youngest Munroist, Daniel Smith, who finished his round at the tender age of nine. If you’re wanting your little ones to challenge his reign, you’d better get them training early!
  • Finally, if you love walking in torrential rain, howling gales and blizzards, you may be interested in the winter records. Martin Moran was the first to complete all the Munros in one winter season in 1983/5 and Steve Perry completed the first (and only?) continuous winter round entirely on foot (and ferry).

I don’t know about you, but it seems to me there’s a distinct lack of women on that list! Delving a bit deeper into the archives of Google, it appears the first woman to complete a continuous round was Kathy Murgatroyd in 1982. Kate Weyman and Lorraine McCall are also noted as having completed continuous rounds, in 113 days and 141 days respectively, but it looks like there’s potential for some fit ladies out there to make their mark on the Munro history books. Now there’s a thought. . .

Are You Ready to Take Up the Munro Challenge?

So there you have it, everything you ever wanted to know about Munro bagging and probably a fair bit more besides. Have I convinced you to take up the challenge yet? Yes? Great stuff. All together now, Sláinte!

Wild Walks: Hiking the Routeburn Track

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Harris Lake on the Routeburn Track

Feel like you’ve stepped into Middle-earth? Harris Lake, near the high point of the Routeburn Track.


Voted one of the World’s ‘Top Ten Classic Hikes’ by Lonely Planet, this multi-day hike takes you through some of the most beautiful scenery New Zealand’s South Island has to offer. If you’re visiting New Zealand this is the hike you don’t want to miss out on. Here’s everything you need to know about the Routeburn.

So what is the Routeburn?

The Routeburn is a 32-kilometer walk through part of New Zealand’s Fjordland National Park. It’s a one-way walk which most people hike from east to west, starting from the Routeburn Shelter (near Glenorchy), and finishing at the Divide Shelter (between Te Anau and Milford Sound).

Sounds good – tell me more!

The Routeburn is one of the shortest of New Zealand’s nine Great Walks, and arguably the most popular. It attracts thousands of hikers a year, but even in peak season, you should experience moments of solitude along the trail.

The Routeburn is well signposted and most of the way you’re on a wide, easy path. Take advantage of the good conditions underfoot to admire the views!

How long does it take?

Most people take two or three days to complete the hike, staying in one or two of the DOC (Department of Conservation) huts overnight. If you’re very fit you could complete it in a day, but you’d need to plan your transport carefully to make sure you don’t end up stranded at the far end. Better to take your time and explore the two worthwhile detours off the track: Conical Hill and Key Summit. Both offer stunning views.

Highlights of the Routeburn Track

One of the best things about the Routeburn is that it packs in a lot of variety. This is one trek you won’t get bored on.

Setting off from the Routeburn Shelter, you start by meandering up gently through woodland to the Routeburn Flats. Here the track divides – if you’re stopping here overnight, head right to get to the Routeburn Flats hut and campsite, set in a peaceful, grassy meadow.

For most people, this is a little too early in the walk to be stopping. Continue on the main path as it steepens and zig-zags up through the forest. You gain a lot of height quickly, but the path is good and occasional glimpses of the spectacular views back down across the valley give you motivation to keep going. There are a couple of fun suspension bridges to cross on the way up and a rockier section (with a handrail) near the top.

At the top of the zig-zags, you reach the Routeburn Falls hut; a large hut perched on the hillside about 8.8km from the start of the tramp. There’s no camping, but it’s a popular first night stop and there are great views from the balcony. The walk between this hut and the next (Lake Mackenzie hut) takes 4.5 – 6.5 hours, so you’ll probably end up staying at one or both of these huts.

Looking back down the valley from above Routeburn Falls Hut

Looking back down the valley from above Routeburn Falls hut

As you continue beyond the Routeburn Falls hut, you leave the trees behind and enter a more rugged, mountainous landscape. The path gets a bit narrower here, but it’s still clearly marked by red sticks. Don’t forgot to stop occasionally and look behind you to drink in the views. In this Tolkienesque landscape you half expect an Orc to jump out at you from behind the nearest boulder.

The path continues up, past a high mountain lake to the Harris Saddle, where there are a couple of small shelters (overnight use prohibited). This is the high point of the official Routeburn Track at 1,255m and offers breathtaking views of the Hollyford valley and Darran Mountains – definitely a good place to stop and eat your lunch.

If you have time (and enough energy in your legs) I’d definitely recommend the detour up to Conical Hill. It’s a 1-2 hour round trip, but harder going than the main Routeburn track. The path is steep and narrow, and there are a couple of sections of easy scrambling. Your reward when you reach the top is a spectacular, 360 degree vista that not even the best photographer can do justice to.

Back down at the Harris Saddle, continue along the main track down across the exposed Hollyford face, gradually descending to the Lake Mackenzie hut, which nestles among the trees by Lake Mackenzie.

Leaving the Mackenzie Hut, the track climbs slightly before descending to the impressive Earland Falls. From here the track carries on down through beech woodland to Lake Howden Hut, from which it’s a further 3.4km to the end of the Track at The Divide. It’s well worth taking a slight detour (signposted) up to Key Summit, where there’s an informative nature walk round the Alpine wetlands and great views of the surrounding mountains.

Can I just do part of the Track?

If you only have a day or you can’t afford the expense of accommodation and transport services, you can hike the first part of the Track (from the Routeburn shelter) as a there-and-back walk. Go as far as you feel able, but remember you’ll be more tired on the way back. I took a long day and made it all the way to the top of Conical Hill and back, but it was a tough hike! Likewise, if you’re driving down to Milford Sound, it’s worth stopping off at The Divide to walk up to Key Summit; an easy hike that rewards you with amazing views.

How fit do I need to be?

This really depends on your itinerary. You need to be happy carrying a pack with everything you’ll need for the hike and overnight stays, but it’s easy to split the trek into manageable sections. The main track is well maintained all the way and never too difficult.

Hiking the Routeburn outside of the main Great Walks season (which runs from 25th October to 27th April) should only be attempted by experienced, equipped people who are used to walking in the high mountains in winter. Deep snow can hide the route markers and there are over thirty-two avalanche paths that cross the Track.

What about accommodation?

There are four huts and two campsites along the Routeburn Track, owned and maintained by the DOC (Department of Conservation). These must be booked in advance during the Great Walks season and can book out months in advance, particularly for peak times. Wild camping elsewhere on the trail is not permitted.

Facilities at the hut include bunks with mattresses, flush toilets, cold running water and cooking equipment including fuel. You’ll need to take your own sleeping bag, cooking utensils and food.

A bed at a hut costs $54NZD and campsite fees per person, per night are $18NZD (2016/17 prices). You can check availability and book online at the DOC website.

Outside of the Green Walks season, beds are on a first come, first served basis and facilities at the huts are significantly reduced. You’ll need to buy backcountry hut and campsite tickets before you set off – these are available from DOC visitor centres.

Transport and logistics

The Routeburn is a one-way trail, so you’re going to need some help with transport. There are various transport and car relocation services available (all prices listed below are for the 2016/17 season). If you’re looking to do the full Track in a day, then car relocation is really your only option as the bus schedules assume a multi-day trip.

Bus services

Info & Track offer a bus service to take you to the beginning of the Track and pick you up from the end (whichever direction you decide to walk in). From Queenstown, the return trip costs $126NZD per person.
Kiwi discovery offer drop off and pick up from either end of the trail, returning to Queenstown for $119NZD per person.
Tracknet offer transport from either Queenstown or Te Anau for $119NZD. There is some flexibility to include a short stop off in Te Anau if you’re heading back from The Divide to Queenstown.

There is also the option with all of the above to get a return trip to Routeburn Shelter if you just want to do a day walk, or to add in a trip to Milford Sound after finishing at The Divide, before heading back to Queenstown.

Car relocation services

Easy Hike will transport your car from the Routeburn Shelter to the Divide (or vice versa) for $285NZD
Trackhopper will take your car from Routeburn Shelter to the Divide for $264NZD, or from the Divide to the Routeburn Shelter for $230NZD. You may spot Michael or Kiyomi running back home along the track after dropping your vehicle off!

Find out more

  • The DOC website has a wealth of information on the Routeburn and the other Great Walks. You can download a brochure for the Routeburn Track which includes a very basic map of the route.
  • If you want a bit more reassurance on the trail, Ultimate Hikes offer a 3 day guided walk of the Routeburn from $1375NZD including basic equipment and accommodation in private lodges (no sleeping bags needed!).
  • Easyhike has a useful list of 21 tips to make your Routeburn experience an outstanding one.
  • If you’re tramping the Routeburn during the main (summer) season, the path should be clear, well signposted and easy to follow. You can purchase a map of the trail, which also includes the Greenstone Caples track.