Feel like you’ve stepped into Middle-earth? Harris Lake, near the high point of the Routeburn Track.
Voted one of the World’s ‘Top Ten Classic Hikes’ by Lonely Planet, this multi-day hike takes you through some of the most beautiful scenery New Zealand’s South Island has to offer. If you’re visiting New Zealand this is the hike you don’t want to miss out on. Here’s everything you need to know about the Routeburn.
So what is the Routeburn?
The Routeburn is a 32-kilometer walk through part of New Zealand’s Fjordland National Park. It’s a one-way walk which most people hike from east to west, starting from the Routeburn Shelter (near Glenorchy), and finishing at the Divide Shelter (between Te Anau and Milford Sound).
Sounds good – tell me more!
The Routeburn is one of the shortest of New Zealand’s nine Great Walks, and arguably the most popular. It attracts thousands of hikers a year, but even in peak season, you should experience moments of solitude along the trail.
The Routeburn is well signposted and most of the way you’re on a wide, easy path. Take advantage of the good conditions underfoot to admire the views!
How long does it take?
Most people take two or three days to complete the hike, staying in one or two of the DOC (Department of Conservation) huts overnight. If you’re very fit you could complete it in a day, but you’d need to plan your transport carefully to make sure you don’t end up stranded at the far end. Better to take your time and explore the two worthwhile detours off the track: Conical Hill and Key Summit. Both offer stunning views.
Highlights of the Routeburn Track
One of the best things about the Routeburn is that it packs in a lot of variety. This is one trek you won’t get bored on.
Setting off from the Routeburn Shelter, you start by meandering up gently through woodland to the Routeburn Flats. Here the track divides – if you’re stopping here overnight, head right to get to the Routeburn Flats hut and campsite, set in a peaceful, grassy meadow.
For most people, this is a little too early in the walk to be stopping. Continue on the main path as it steepens and zig-zags up through the forest. You gain a lot of height quickly, but the path is good and occasional glimpses of the spectacular views back down across the valley give you motivation to keep going. There are a couple of fun suspension bridges to cross on the way up and a rockier section (with a handrail) near the top.
At the top of the zig-zags, you reach the Routeburn Falls hut; a large hut perched on the hillside about 8.8km from the start of the tramp. There’s no camping, but it’s a popular first night stop and there are great views from the balcony. The walk between this hut and the next (Lake Mackenzie hut) takes 4.5 – 6.5 hours, so you’ll probably end up staying at one or both of these huts.
Looking back down the valley from above Routeburn Falls hut
As you continue beyond the Routeburn Falls hut, you leave the trees behind and enter a more rugged, mountainous landscape. The path gets a bit narrower here, but it’s still clearly marked by red sticks. Don’t forgot to stop occasionally and look behind you to drink in the views. In this Tolkienesque landscape you half expect an Orc to jump out at you from behind the nearest boulder.
The path continues up, past a high mountain lake to the Harris Saddle, where there are a couple of small shelters (overnight use prohibited). This is the high point of the official Routeburn Track at 1,255m and offers breathtaking views of the Hollyford valley and Darran Mountains – definitely a good place to stop and eat your lunch.
If you have time (and enough energy in your legs) I’d definitely recommend the detour up to Conical Hill. It’s a 1-2 hour round trip, but harder going than the main Routeburn track. The path is steep and narrow, and there are a couple of sections of easy scrambling. Your reward when you reach the top is a spectacular, 360 degree vista that not even the best photographer can do justice to.
Back down at the Harris Saddle, continue along the main track down across the exposed Hollyford face, gradually descending to the Lake Mackenzie hut, which nestles among the trees by Lake Mackenzie.
Leaving the Mackenzie Hut, the track climbs slightly before descending to the impressive Earland Falls. From here the track carries on down through beech woodland to Lake Howden Hut, from which it’s a further 3.4km to the end of the Track at The Divide. It’s well worth taking a slight detour (signposted) up to Key Summit, where there’s an informative nature walk round the Alpine wetlands and great views of the surrounding mountains.
Can I just do part of the Track?
If you only have a day or you can’t afford the expense of accommodation and transport services, you can hike the first part of the Track (from the Routeburn shelter) as a there-and-back walk. Go as far as you feel able, but remember you’ll be more tired on the way back. I took a long day and made it all the way to the top of Conical Hill and back, but it was a tough hike! Likewise, if you’re driving down to Milford Sound, it’s worth stopping off at The Divide to walk up to Key Summit; an easy hike that rewards you with amazing views.
How fit do I need to be?
This really depends on your itinerary. You need to be happy carrying a pack with everything you’ll need for the hike and overnight stays, but it’s easy to split the trek into manageable sections. The main track is well maintained all the way and never too difficult.
Hiking the Routeburn outside of the main Great Walks season (which runs from 25th October to 27th April) should only be attempted by experienced, equipped people who are used to walking in the high mountains in winter. Deep snow can hide the route markers and there are over thirty-two avalanche paths that cross the Track.
What about accommodation?
There are four huts and two campsites along the Routeburn Track, owned and maintained by the DOC (Department of Conservation). These must be booked in advance during the Great Walks season and can book out months in advance, particularly for peak times. Wild camping elsewhere on the trail is not permitted.
Facilities at the hut include bunks with mattresses, flush toilets, cold running water and cooking equipment including fuel. You’ll need to take your own sleeping bag, cooking utensils and food.
A bed at a hut costs $54NZD and campsite fees per person, per night are $18NZD (2016/17 prices). You can check availability and book online at the DOC website.
Outside of the Green Walks season, beds are on a first come, first served basis and facilities at the huts are significantly reduced. You’ll need to buy backcountry hut and campsite tickets before you set off – these are available from DOC visitor centres.
Transport and logistics
The Routeburn is a one-way trail, so you’re going to need some help with transport. There are various transport and car relocation services available (all prices listed below are for the 2016/17 season). If you’re looking to do the full Track in a day, then car relocation is really your only option as the bus schedules assume a multi-day trip.
Bus services
Info & Track offer a bus service to take you to the beginning of the Track and pick you up from the end (whichever direction you decide to walk in). From Queenstown, the return trip costs $126NZD per person.
Kiwi discovery offer drop off and pick up from either end of the trail, returning to Queenstown for $119NZD per person.
Tracknet offer transport from either Queenstown or Te Anau for $119NZD. There is some flexibility to include a short stop off in Te Anau if you’re heading back from The Divide to Queenstown.
There is also the option with all of the above to get a return trip to Routeburn Shelter if you just want to do a day walk, or to add in a trip to Milford Sound after finishing at The Divide, before heading back to Queenstown.
Car relocation services
Easy Hike will transport your car from the Routeburn Shelter to the Divide (or vice versa) for $285NZD
Trackhopper will take your car from Routeburn Shelter to the Divide for $264NZD, or from the Divide to the Routeburn Shelter for $230NZD. You may spot Michael or Kiyomi running back home along the track after dropping your vehicle off!
Find out more
- The DOC website has a wealth of information on the Routeburn and the other Great Walks. You can download a brochure for the Routeburn Track which includes a very basic map of the route.
- If you want a bit more reassurance on the trail, Ultimate Hikes offer a 3 day guided walk of the Routeburn from $1375NZD including basic equipment and accommodation in private lodges (no sleeping bags needed!).
- Easyhike has a useful list of 21 tips to make your Routeburn experience an outstanding one.
- If you’re tramping the Routeburn during the main (summer) season, the path should be clear, well signposted and easy to follow. You can purchase a map of the trail, which also includes the Greenstone Caples track.
