Seek out tranquility in Villa Ada
I love city breaks: seeing the sights, exploring hidden alleyways, sampling local food, wandering the streets at night. (Cities, I find, are always more beautiful at night.) But there are only so many museums and art galleries I can take before I’m itching to get outdoors. In this series of posts, I share some of my tips for making the most of Europe’s most beautiful and vibrant cities, starting with one of my favourites: Rome.
Rome is a fantastic city to explore on foot – just make sure you bring comfy shoes for those cobbled streets! In fact, there’s so much to see and do that sometimes it can become a bit overwhelming, particularly if you’re visiting in the heat of the Italian summer. If the dusty, crowded streets are becoming a bit too much, then check out one of these options and explore an alternative side of Rome.
Segway in Villa Borghese
The most accessible of Rome’s large parks, Villa Borghese is a 148-acre estate of gardens, art galleries, a 63-seat cinema and the Bioparco di Roma, which contains 222 species of animals and birds. Hire a Segway if your legs are feeling the strain and glide between the flowerbeds, statues and trees. Don’t miss the boating lake with the Temple of Asclepius (the Greek god of medicine and healing). You can hire a Segway from €15 an hour or join an organised tour.
Explore Villa Ada and Villa Doria Pamphili
Villa Borghese may be the most central and popular of Rome’s parks, but if you have time it’s well worth heading a bit further out to Villa Ada (in the northeastern part of the city) or Villa Doria Pamphili (in the Monteverde neighbourhood, on the west side of the River Tiber). Both are significantly larger – and quieter – than Villa Borghese, so if you fancy a bit of peace and tranquility and a chance to wander off the path, you should pay them a visit. If you’re an early bird, I can recommend a morning run in the park as a great way of earning your pasta lunch (and the pasta in Rome is GOOD).
Run the marathon
Talking of pasta, there’s no shortage of places to get your pre-race carbs for this marathon. The Rome marathon takes place annually in early spring (in 2017 it’s on Sunday 2nd April) and takes you on a sightseeing tour of the city, starting and ending in front of the Coliseum. The course is pretty flat and manages to avoid Rome’s famous hills, but you’d better be used to cobbled streets if you’re after a PB. If a marathon-distance is a bit too much, there’s also a non-competitive 4km fun run which anyone can take part in.
Visit Palatine Hill and Celio Hill
A museum in the open air? Go on then. Palatine Hill (the Palantino) is one of the seven hills of Rome and one of the most ancient parts of the city. It’s an enchanted place of dramatic ruins and spectacular views across Rome. Towering pine trees provide welcome shade on a hot day and there are various grassed areas where you can relax and imagine what life here was like 2,000 years ago.
Celio Hill sits nearby, above the Colosseum and contains two interlinked parks – Villa Celimontana and Parco del Celio – along with churches and Roman remains. Check it out to find some shade during the heat of the day, whilst you’re waiting for the queues at the Colosseum to go down.
Get on your bike
If you’ve got limited time, up the pace and get on a bike. Rome’s streets are not always the easiest to navigate, so booking on a bike tour means you’ll have an expert to take you on the optimum route between sites. If you’re feeling lethargic, you can hire an electric-assist bike for an easier ride. Various companies offer bike tours: Italy Cruiser and Top Bike Rental get good write-ups and have tours starting from €35 Per person.
Everything you need to know about visiting Rome
When to visit: Spring is the best time, particularly if you want to see the gardens in their full splendour. By July and August things are hotting up, and in the winter it can be cold and wet.
How to get there: Most international flights land at Fiumicino airport (also known as Leonardo da Vinci International airport). The easiest way to get into central Rome is to take the train – the Leonardi da Vinci express takes around half an hour, or you can take the (cheaper) stopping train.
Where to stay: Accommodation is plentiful in Rome and there’s everything from cheap hostels to five-star hotels. It’s worth finding somewhere in walking distance of the centre – Rome is beautiful at night, but public transport can be irregular.
What to eat: Food in Rome is almost always delicious – steer clear of the obvious tourist traps and take a trip down a side street and you may come across a gem of a taverna selling perfectly-cooking pasta and pizza. If you’re visiting between February and May then try the fried “Jewish-style” artichokes; other specialities include cacio e pepe (pasta with pecorino Romano cheese and black pepper) and coda alla vaccinara (slow-cooked oxtail). If you’re on a budget, look out for places that do good apertivos – an early evening drink with a snack (or sometimes a full meal) to accompany it.