Category: Travel

Everything You Need to Know About the NC500

Gruinard Bay

Gruinard Bay: just one of the many stunning beaches you’ll find on the NC500

Where has the last month gone? If you’ve noticed my absence from the blog in recent weeks, I offer a humble apology. I launched my first novel at the end of last month (you can check it out here) and that, along with writing the sequel, getting two separate stories ready for anthologies and my freelance work has meant I’ve been spending way too much time in front of my computer screen. But I’m back! And I hope you’ll enjoy this week’s article which is all about the North Coast 500 (NC500): Scotland’s premier touring route.

I have frequently raved about Scotland’s beauties on these pages, and the North Coast 500 takes in some of the most beautiful and (until now) undiscovered parts of this fantastic country. Dubbed as Scotland’s answer to Route 66, it starts and finishes in the Highland capital of Inverness and loops for 500 miles around the northernmost part of the Scottish mainland. You’ll pass towering mountains, pristine white-sand beaches and ancient castles as you wind your way through the stunning scenery.

Although I’ve visited many of the places along the NC500 route, I’ve never linked them all together. But it’s on my bucket list to either take a leisurely drive in our campervan or cycle the route. If you’re looking for some inspiration for a cycling challenge, check out the Adventure Syndicate ladies who completed a non-stop team trial around the full 500-mile loop in 36 hours.

Raring to go? Great! Here’s what you need to know about the North Coast 500.

NC500 Factfile

The route: You start in Inverness and wind your way through the mountains to Applecross on the west coast. From there you head north through Torridon, Gairloch and Poolewe, and up to Ullapool. Continuing north, you visit some of the most northerly coastal areas of Scotland, including the famous John O’Groats, before returning down the east coast to Inverness.
Transport options: Car, campervan, motorbike or bicycle — the choice is yours! Whatever option you choose, be courteous to other road users and remember that many of the roads are single track and weren’t designed for the volume of traffic they now experience. If you need to swot up on your passing place etiquette, check out this useful summary.
How long does it take?: How long is a piece of string? The NC500 is not a speed race. If you rush, you’ll miss the beautiful sights and hidden secrets that this part of Scotland has to offer. Most official itineraries suggest a 7 or 8 day trip, but if you can spare the time, I’d recommend taking two weeks (or three!). This will allow you to spend a couple of nights in different places and explore the surrounding countryside.
When to go: This really depends on what you’re after. If you want good weather, then May, June and July tend to be the driest months. May and September are good months to avoid the midges and still get some decent weather, and if you’re willing to take a risk, April can be beautiful. (But can also be wet or snowy.) Just remember, you’re not in the Caribbean, so whenever you choose to visit, bring a warm jumper and a raincoat. If you don’t like other people, winter will be quiet, but be prepared for the roads to be icy and most tourist amenities and sites to be closed.
Where to stay: There’s plenty of accommodation available in most of the main towns to suit all budgets. It does pay to book ahead, especially in summer, when a lot of campsites and B&Bs get fully booked.
Essential kit: Midge repellent and a tick remover!
More information: Check out the official North Coast 500 website for more information on the route.

How to Escape the Crowds by Hiking the Cinque Terre

The village of Vernazza in the Cinque Terre

The five tiny villages that make up the Cinque Terre are for many the crowning highlight of the Italian Riviera. Jumbles of coloured buildings cling to the rocky coastline that plunge into the clear blue sea, perfect for bathing. The breathtaking views and old-fashioned charm are enough to melt the hardest photographer’s heart. But the Cinque Terre is far from a secret destination and the solitude that once distinguished these villages is almost totally absent.

All is not lost. If you’re happy to do a bit of leg-work then there’s the opportunity to get stunning views of the villages and coastline and enjoy some solitude on the network of paths in the mountains behind the Cinque Terre. Even better, you’ll have every excuse for sampling the delicious Ligurian cuisine at every village you stop by. Here are some tips on hiking the Cinque Terre.

Cinque Terre coastline

The beautiful coastline of the Cinque Terre

The Five Villages of the Cinque Terre

From west to east, the five villages are:

Monterosso

The largest of the towns and the only one with a proper beach, making it a great place to stay to get an early start to your hike.

Vernazza

A stunning village from every viewpoint, Vernazza is characterised by its small harbour and steep, winding streets.

Corniglia

The only one of the five without direct access to the sea, Corniglia is perched on the cliffs surrounded by vineyards.

Manarola

Manarola doesn’t have much of a harbour, but the boats that line the main street down to the water would make you think otherwise. A beautiful village and a popular place for swimming.

Riomaggiore

The easternmost of the villages and often the most crowded, Riomaggiore is connected to Manarola by the well-known Lovers’ Lane.

Hiking Paths in the Cinque Terre

The most popular (i.e. busy) way to walk between the five villages is via the Sentiero Azzurro, also known as Trail #2 or the Blue Trail. This is about 12 kilometres in total, though it’s a full day trip if you want to stop in each village. At the time of writing (September 2017) the only part of this trail which is open is the section between Vernazza and Corniglia. Huge landslides devastated the area some years ago and the footpaths are still being repaired.

Running the Sentierro Azzurro path

Running the Sentierro Azzurro path between Vernazza and Corniglia

This does give you the excuse to go higher into the mountains and explore some of the hamlets and churches perched above the villages.

View from the Sanctuary of Soviore

Looking back down on Monterosso from the Sanctuary of Soviore

If you want to avoid the villages completely, the 35-kilometer High Path runs along the crest of the hills between Portovenere and Levanto.

Alternative Transport Options for Getting Around the Cinque Terre

If you’re short of time or don’t fancy hiking the full length of the coast, you can mix and match your transport options. If you only have a day and want to steer clear of the Sentiero Azzurro Trail, you’re best off picking a few sections of the higher paths to hike and using the train to get between the other villages.

Another option is to join one of the boat tours, giving you a very different view of the coastline from the sea.

When to Hike the Cinque Terre

The best time for hiking is spring and autumn. The months of April, May, September and October have pleasant temperatures and if you go towards the beginning or end of the season then you’ll miss the worst of the crowds in the villages. Winter is a lot quieter, but you risk bad weather which can close the trails.

Manarola

The picturesque village of Manarola

Hiking in the Wider Ligurian Region

If you really want to escape the crowds, why not leave the Cinque Terre to the tourists and explore some of the other footpaths along the Italian Riviera? Beautiful scenery AND solitude. Bliss.

How to Pack for an Active Holiday in a Carry-on Bag

Man with rucksack on train station platform

One bag to rule them all?

If you’re travelling on a budget, you can still get your hands on low-cost flights. That is, until you look at the extras. If you’re wanting to check-in a suitcase for your holiday you could end up doubling the cost of your flight. Travelling with just a carry-on bag means you have extra cash for a nice meal out, expensive museum tickets or many, many ice creams. But can you really pack everything you need for an active holiday into your hand luggage?

In most cases, the answer is yes. If you’re planning a hiking, cycling, running or multi-sport holiday, a lot of the time you’ll be able to fit everything you need into a small carry-on bag. The main exception is rock climbing holidays. As you can’t hire climbing gear (most climbers wouldn’t want to even if you could) and there’s no way you can fit ropes, hardware, harnesses and shoes into a carry-on bag, you’re going to need to check-in at least one bag. But similar principles apply. My husband and I usually pack all of our climbing gear into one duffle bag that we check-in and take everything else in our hand luggage.

If you’re wanting to avoid being ripped-off by airline baggage fees, then check out these top tips for packing for an active holiday in a carry-on bag.

Plan What You’re Going to Do on Holiday

You don’t have to plan every day of your holiday in detail (though for some people this is part of the fun!) but knowing what activities you’re going to be doing will help you decide what to pack and what to leave behind.

If you’re going on a cycling holiday, or a hiking trip then this is pretty straightforward. But if you like to do a bit of everything then it’s worth considering what you’ll actually have time to do so you don’t end up packing a load of stuff you don’t need.

For example, I’m just about to come home from a trip to Genoa. We hadn’t planned exactly what we were going to do before heading out, but we were hoping to have a few days running along the coast, possibly a day hiking in the hills, some sightseeing time and a few trips to the beach. Add into the mix visiting various family and friends in the area and possibly a nice dinner out and that’s a lot of clothing combinations! I decided to take one pair of trail running shoes that could double as hiking shoes, so I could leave my walking boots at home. I chose layers that could be worn together if the weather was cooler and lots of vest tops (as they don’t take up much space and I was hoping it would be warm!).

Wear Your Bulkiest Clothes (and Shoes)

If you’re trying to make the most of your carry-on bag, then you may have to sacrifice style on the plane. It makes sense to wear your bulkiest shoes and clothes to fly in. So, if you’re going on a hiking trip, wear your walking boots on the plane. My bulkiest clothes are typically jeans and jumpers, so I usually wear or carry these on the flight over.

The exception to this is if you’re going on a cycling holiday. No one is going to advocate hobbling through the airport in a pair of SPDs…

Check the Weather Before You Travel

Let’s face it. Packing for travelling to southern Europe in summer is pretty easy. You can be sure that the weather will be hot and sunny and, as summer clothes take less space than winter clothes, you can fit more into your hand luggage. But if you’re travelling during the winter or to a country with a changeable climate (hello, Britain) then packing can be a bit trickier.

Weather forecasts are rarely a hundred percent accurate, but they will give you an indication of what to expect so you can pack accordingly. For example, if it’s looking cool and there’s a lot of rain forecast you may decide to take a rugged waterproof coat, whereas if the weather is likely to be mostly dry you can get away with a light packable jacket.

If you could be faced with all types of weather on your trip then opt for lightweight, warm clothing and layers that can be worn together or separately depending on the temperature.

Merino wool t-shirts are great as many are smart enough to wear around town or even for going out for dinner. Buffs are a packable option if you want something to keep your neck or head warm without packing a woolly hat. A light scarf can have many uses, from keeping you warm in cooler weather to covering your head and shoulders in summer (particularly if you’re visiting religious sites or are in a Muslim country).

Check What’s Available at Your Accommodation

Towels are necessary but bulky. If you get them included with your accommodation, this is ideal. If you don’t then trek towels pack up reasonably small and are definitely a better option than filling half your carry-on bag with a beach towel.

Depending on where you’re staying, you may also have toiletries provided and hair dryers, umbrellas and other useful, but bulky, items. If you’re not sure, it’s always worth asking in advance.

Cut Down on Liquids

One of the challenges of travelling with just hand luggage is fitting all your liquids into that tiny one-litre plastic bag. A set of reusable travel bottles means you can take your favourite toiletries with you without having to buy the expensive travel-sized versions.

If you’re travelling for longer than a few days, it’s often worth buying bulky items such as shower gel, shampoo and toothpaste from the supermarket when you land. If you’re travelling with friends or family, club together to buy large bottles you can share which you will either use up or can leave behind when you go home.

Carrying makeup can be a nightmare when you’re trying to fit everything into your little plastic bag. I know a lot of outdoorsy people would scoff at the idea of carrying makeup on an active holiday, but I’m not one to judge. Whilst I personally wouldn’t take makeup on a six-week hiking expedition, I’ve suffered from bad skin for years and typically take some makeup on a mixed, multi-activity holiday.

My main tips for this would be to try and rationalise what makeup you take, and to travel with men! Often male companions will have a bit extra space in their plastic bags and may agree (if you ask nicely) to carry your deodorant or shampoo so you have a bit more space. Look for products that take up less space; for example, a stick foundation is much more packable than a glass bottle of liquid foundation. There’s a great guide to travel makeup here.

Coconut oil is a super useful multi-purpose product. You can use it as a makeup remover (pack a small face cloth), moisturiser, a replacement for shaving cream and a hair conditioner.

Choose the Right Carry-On Bag

Your choice of carry-on bag will depend on what you’re planning to do on holiday. If you’re on a hiking trip, then you’re likely to take your hiking pack as your hand luggage (make sure it meets airline requirements!). If you’re a keen photographer, then you may opt for a plastic suitcase to protect your camera gear in transit.

My husband and I both have Osprey Quasar packs, which we love! They have a padded laptop sleeve (useful for me as I take my laptop everywhere), lots of pockets for organising gear, a fair bit of space and are comfortable to carry. Hubby usually carries a rolled-up 15-litre running pack in his bag which we use for day runs or hikes.

There’s a great article from Outsider Online which discussed the pros and cons of different types of carry-on bag. Always check to make sure your bag meets the airline’s size requirements – an expensive mistake if you get it wrong.