Category: Hiking

Everything You Need to Know About Wild Camping

by Alison Ingleby on June 6, 2017 in Hiking, Microadventures • 0 Comments

One of the best things about wild camping is the view from your front door

Wild camping season is here! The days are drawing out, the sun is shining (sometimes) and the countryside is a million shades of green. If you haven’t already dusted off your tent or bivvy bag, now is the time.

Whether you’re new to wild camping, or just looking for a few new ideas, here’s the lowdown on everything you need to know about wild camping.

What’s the Difference Between Wild Camping and Camping On a Site?

This may be a dumb question. (But there is no such thing as a dumb question, right?) It’s pretty obvious that camping in the wild is going to be a different experience to pitching up in a serviced campsite. There are no showers for one thing. Or toilets. Or other people. If any of these things are essential to your love of camping, then you may want to give wild camping a miss.

On a more serious note, whereas you may pitch your tent in a campsite for a weekend or week-long trip, this is not the done thing when wild camping. The unwritten rule is ‘dusk ‘til dawn’. Pitch up late in the day and move on early the next morning. You’re a wanderer. An explorer. If you pitch up twenty metres from your car and spend the weekend relaxing in your folding chair next to the barbeque, you’re kind of missing the point.

Is Wild Camping legal?

This depends on where you’re looking to camp. In Scotland, wild camping is permitted as long as you follow the Outdoor Access Code. Leave no trace, follow the ‘dawn ‘til’ dusk’ guidelines and don’t get in anyone’s way and you’re unlikely to have a problem.

In the majority of England, Wales and Northern Ireland, you have no legal right to camp wild and technically you should ask the landowner’s permission (except for Dartmoor where you’re allowed to wild camp for one or two nights on open land). However, in many remote areas, wild camping is tolerated as long as you pitch up well away from roads and farmland.

Essential Kit for Wild Camping

Wild camping kit can be as cheap or as expensive as you want to make it. At one end of the scale, you can have a perfectly good night with a cheap plastic bivvy bag, a sleeping bag and a pack of sandwiches. But if you’re planning on making a regular habit of wild camping, or if you’re backpacking then you may want to invest in some specific gear.

Here are the main essentials you’ll need for Wild Camping:

Bivvy bag or tent – bivvy bags are perfect for microadventures and single nights out, but if you’re doing a long trip then a small tent can be worth its weight in gold. Particularly if it’s raining.
Sleeping bag – even in summer, you’ll have an uncomfortable night without your bag.
Sleeping mat – ideally a lightweight, blow up mat such as a Thermarest.
Warm jacket – always worth carrying a spare layer, especially if you’re likely to be sitting around in the evening.
Torch – to be fair, at this time of year, it’s light late into the evening. As long as you don’t need any night-time toilet stops you may get away without one.
Stove and pan – something small and light is ideal.
Lighter – you will regret forgetting this. Take two, in case one doesn’t work.
Water bottle – if you’re planning on filling up from streams, then one with a wide neck is ideal.
Mug – not your best china.
Spork – the only implement you need for eating.
Food – see below for ideas.
Insect repellent – you may consider this optional until you’ve been attacked by the dreaded midge. No one wants to wake up with a face full of itchy bites.
Fold up trowel – for your DIY toilet.

You should be able to fit these into a small rucksack, particularly if you’ve taking a bivvy bag rather than a tent. If you’re planning on camping in the woods, then a hammock and tarp is a great alternative to a tent.

Pick Your Perfect Wild Camping Spot

Perfect camping spots rarely appear just when you need them. It’s worth having a rough idea of where you want to camp before setting out.

A couple of things to bear in mind:

Popular spots tend to be, well, popular. If you head up to a classic wild camping spot with a beautiful view on a summer Saturday in the Lake District, then you’re unlikely to have it to yourself.
Look at the weather forecast before heading out. If it’s due to get windy overnight, you might want to avoid camping on an exposed mountaintop.
But if it’s looking calm, an exposed location may help keep the midges at bay!
If you need to collect water for cooking or drinking, then plan to camp near a reliable water source. If it’s been a dry summer, small streams may be more of a trickle near their source. If in doubt, fill up your bottles before heading to high ground.

Once you’ve found the area you’re going to spend the night it, spend ten minutes walking around to find a good spot. If the ‘perfect’ spot you picked on the map turns out to be a man-eating bog, then be prepared to look again. Sadly, maps can’t tell you everything.

Cook Up a Feast

Cooking over a campfire can be the epitome of wild camping. But you should only light a fire where it’s safe to do so and there’s no chance of you starting a wildfire. Seriously, wildfires are a big deal. Don’t be the idiot who accidentally starts one. If you do build a fire, make sure you clear it up afterwards. Leave no trace, remember?

Cooking on a stove may be less romantic, but it’s much more practical. And just because you’re wild camping, doesn’t mean you’re restricted to instant noodles. If you’re out for a single night, then pick up some sausages or cheese to include in your feast. Packing for longer trips requires a bit more thought, but there are lots of tasty meals you can cook up in a single pan. If you’re looking for inspiration, the Dirty Gourmet blog has some great recipes.

When Nature Calls

If you’ve grown up in the outdoors, then you can probably pass over this section. But if you’re new to wild camping and spending time away from ‘real’ toilets, then there are some things you need to know.

Firstly, choose a toilet spot well away from water – at least 30m.

Secondly, leaving toilet paper littered around is the ultimate no-no. I see this all the time when I’m out hiking and it really gets on my nerves. There’s no excuse for it. Ideally, bag up toilet paper and sanitary products and take them out with you. Alternatively, you can burn them VERY CAREFULLY (see point above about wildfires) and bury the ashes, or in a worst case scenario, bury them in a hole in the ground.

Finally, if you’re going for more than a wee, dig a hole. What if you’ve forgotten your trowel? Use a stick. Or a rock. Or your bare hands. Just bury it somehow. Got it?

Wild Camping is Supposed to Be Fun

Ok, so camping in the middle of nowhere with no pub or toilets isn’t everyone’s idea of fun. But I suspect if you’re reading this, you’re at least willing to give it a go. If you’re in need of a break from the hectic world of work, people and social media then I can recommend spending a couple of nights wild camping to recharge your batteries.

Of course, this being Britain, the weather is never guaranteed. And to be honest, if it’s lashing rain then camping in any situation isn’t that fun. So keep an eye on the forecast and if it’s looking bad be prepared to change your plans. If you’re determined to go ahead anyway, then check out my top tips for staying dry when camping in the rain.

So, is there anything I missed? Anything else you want to know about wild camping? Drop me a line, or come and hang out on Twitter and let me know. Until next time, amigos!

Why You Should Start Munro Bagging

by Alison Ingleby on May 23, 2017 in Hiking • 0 Comments

Anyone know what the collective noun for a group of Munro baggers is?

Have you ever heard of the term ‘Munro bagging’? I’d hazard a guess and say probably not, unless you frequent the Scottish mountains or enjoy spending time in the pub with geeky hikers. But if you like a challenge, love exploring wild places and aren’t afraid of the infamous Scottish midge, then Munro bagging may be for you.

Here’s your guide to Scotland’s ultimate ticklist.

What Is Munro Bagging?

Let’s start with the basics, shall we? A Munro is a Scottish mountain over 3,000ft (that’s 914m in new money). There are 282 of them, at the last count. (This does occasionally change, depending on if someone has built a particularly big cairn, or a mountain has sunk.*) They’re named after Sir Hugh Munro, who first listed the summits in his ‘Munros Tables’ in 1891.

When you touch the top of the hallowed summit cairn of a Munro, you can say you’ve ‘bagged’ it. A Munro bagger is someone who has, or is trying to, ‘bag’ all the Munros. The species can usually be identified by their insistence to reach the top of the mountain despite the full force of Scottish rain, wind or snow. (Possibly all three – this is Scotland after all.) Once you’ve successfully completed all 282 Munros, you gain the official title of ‘Munroist’, or ‘compleatist’ (yes, that is spelt correctly, thank you very much, Grammarly).

*More accurate surveying methods have led to the demotion of a few Munros, notably poor Sgùrr nan Ceannaichean, which was taken off the list in 2009 for being just one metre too short.

Where Are the Munros?

If you hadn’t already guessed, they’re in Scotland. More specifically, in the northern part of Scotland. All 282 Munros lie (stand?) north of the Central Belt (that’s the bit with Glasgow and Edinburgh). There’s a nice map of all the Munros here. And for those who like to have some handy facts at their fingertips, here are the cardinal Munros:

Northernmost Munro: Ben Hope, which stands alone in the Flow Country of Sutherland
Easternmost Munro: Mount Keen, in the far east of the Cairngorms National Park
Southernmost Munro: Ben Lomond, many people’s first Munro, stands sentinel over the bonnie banks o’ Loch Lomond
Westernmost Munro: Sgurr na Banachdich, part of the Cuillin Ridge on the Isle of Skye

How to Bag Munros

Well, first you have to get a list of them! Steve Fallon has a handy spreadsheet that you can download from his website, or if you like sticking things on your wall, Harvey May Services do a chart of all the Munros and Corbetts. (I recommend plastering this on your toilet wall as a constant reminder of how many you have left to do.)

Then, it’s just a case of lacing up your boots and heading out into the hills. With appropriate maps, equipment and loyal companions of course. A tip from the wise: if you’re planning on this being a life-term venture, then you may want to look at the order in which you climb the Munros and not leave the longest walk-ins til last.

Speaking of final Munros, tradition has it that you invite all your Munro companions to join you for the walk up your final Munro. On the top of which, you celebrate with champagne, strawberries and chocolate brownies. (I can recommend this recipe as being tried and tested.) So, unless you really want your friends and family to suffer, I’d save a nice easy Munro to the end.

Why bother?

An excellent question. But humans have always loved a good ticklist. I bet even caveman came home to cavewoman and proudly scratched another line on their cave wall to tick off a new beastie he’d managed to kill with his bare hands.

Plus it gives Munro baggers (and their long-suffering families) plenty of excuses for holidays in Scotland. Not that you need an excuse to go to Scotland. (In my humble opinion, one of the most beautiful places on this planet.) But it’s always nice to have a reason to justify another long drive up north to your work colleagues who have just hopped off the plane from Majorca.

But perhaps the main reason is the encouragement to explore some of Scotland’s wildest and remote mountains. Mountains that, if they weren’t over the magic height of 3,000ft, your eyes would skim over on the map. Mountains which, in all likelihood, you’ll complete in solitude, perhaps with the odd mountain bird or deer for company. And on those (admittedly rare) days when the sky is clear, the views from the Scottish mountaintops are some of the most beautiful in the world.

But what if I’ve DONE all the Munros?

I hear your pain. You’ve reached the end of a hard-won race. (In the case of my Dad, a fifty-year project.) And as you gaze into the future, all you see is a vision of lazy days on sun-kissed beaches, a nice cold beer in hand. . .

But where there is a will, there’s always another challenge to be had. If you’re not totally sick of Scotland by now (and why would you be?) get your hands on a list of the Corbetts (that’s Scottish mountains between 2,500 and 3,000ft). There are 222 of them, though you’ve probably got a bit of a head start as you’ll have been up a fair few as part of your Munro marathon. And for the really keen, once you’ve ticked off the Corbetts, you can move on to the Grahams. If that’s not enough then there’s also the Donalds. Phew.

If you want to be really pedantic, you could also tick off the Munro Tops. These are mountains over 3,000ft that in another life would have been a Munro, but due to their overbearing brothers and sisters did not make the list. (Don’t you hate bigger siblings?) I feel quite sorry for these subsidiary summits — so close and yet so far. Perhaps we should start a fan club for the Munro tops. IS ANYONE WITH ME?

Then there are Murdos. These are summits over 3,000ft with at least a 30m (98ft) drop on all sides. (Why not make it 100ft for consistency of measurement? I DON’T KNOW.) So all Munros are Murdos, a Munro Top may or may not be a Murdo, and all Murdos are either Munros or Munro Tops. Are you confused yet? Good, because I am. Anyway, I’m a bit dubious about the Murdos and suspect they were just made up by a forlorn compleatist as an excuse to spend more time in the Scottish hills.

Some interesting facts about Munros

The Inaccessible Pinnacle on Skye is the most technically difficult of the Munros, requiring the bagger to complete a rock climb to touch the top and an abseil to descend.
Various peaks vie for the title of ‘most remote’, but A’ Mhaighdean and Ruadh Stac Mor come out top of most lists. For most people ticking these peaks will require staying in a bothy or wild camping overnight.
The Revd A E Robertson was the first person to complete all the Munros in 1901. However, there is some dispute over his claim, as it’s not certain he reached the summit of Ben Wyvis and he definitely didn’t climb the Inaccessible Pinnacle. If the Rev isn’t allowed to take the number one spot, then he relinquishes it to another man of the church, the Revd Ronald Burn, who completed his round in 1923.
Hamish Brown completed the first continuous round of the Munros in 1974 which involved 1,639 miles of walking (and 150 miles on a bike).
The speed record for the Munros is held by Stephen Pike who set the record of 39 days and 9 hours in 2010, cycling and kayaking between peaks.
Perhaps equally impressive is the youngest Munroist, Daniel Smith, who finished his round at the tender age of nine. If you’re wanting your little ones to challenge his reign, you’d better get them training early!
Finally, if you love walking in torrential rain, howling gales and blizzards, you may be interested in the winter records. Martin Moran was the first to complete all the Munros in one winter season in 1983/5 and Steve Perry completed the first (and only?) continuous winter round entirely on foot (and ferry).

I don’t know about you, but it seems to me there’s a distinct lack of women on that list! Delving a bit deeper into the archives of Google, it appears the first woman to complete a continuous round was Kathy Murgatroyd in 1982. Kate Weyman and Lorraine McCall are also noted as having completed continuous rounds, in 113 days and 141 days respectively, but it looks like there’s potential for some fit ladies out there to make their mark on the Munro history books. Now there’s a thought. . .

Are You Ready to Take Up the Munro Challenge?

So there you have it, everything you ever wanted to know about Munro bagging and probably a fair bit more besides. Have I convinced you to take up the challenge yet? Yes? Great stuff. All together now, Sláinte!

Wild Walks: The West Highland Way

by Alison Ingleby on November 29, 2016 in Hiking • 0 Comments

Looking down to Inveroran on the West Highland Way

In this Wild Walks post, we explore the West Highland Way – Scotland’s most popular long-distance hike. The highlands of Scotland are (in my humble opinion) some of the wildest and most beautiful landscapes in Britain. If you’re looking for a multi-day hike that’s easy to access and allows you to explore the best that Scotland has to offer, this is it.

So what is the West Highland Way?

The West Highland Way is a 96-mile (154-kilometer) one-way, long-distance walk between Milngavie (a small town north of Glasgow) and Fort William.

Sounds good – tell me more!

Although the West Highland Way can be completed in either direction, it’s most commonly walked from south to north, beginning in Milngavie. In this direction you leave the city and towns of the lowlands behind as you walk deeper into the mountains, finishing at the foot of Britain’s highest mountain: Ben Nevis. Along the way you get to experience some of the best of Scotland’s wild landscapes, from The Bonnie Banks of Loch Lomond to the rugged wilderness of Rannoch Moor.

How long does it take?

Most people take 7-8 days to complete the West Highland Way, though it is possible to do it in less if you’re fit. If you’re after a real challenge, you could try the West Highland Way Race or the West Highland Way Challenge Race and attempt the full 96-mile trail in under 35 hours.

Highlights of the West Highland Way

Conic Hill provides one of the most spectacular views along the Way. Situated on the faultline between the Lowlands and the Highlands, it’s well worth taking a short detour to the summit to take in the views of Loch Lomond.

The beauty of Loch Lomond has inspired many writers and artists over centuries. The West Highland Way skirts round the east of the lake and is one of the tougher sections of the walk. It’s also isolated with no road access, so make sure you’re able to complete this section of the walk in a day.

Take in a bit of history at Tyndrum Community Woodland. On your way through, look out for the bench commemorating the Battle of Dalrigh, where Robert the Bruce was defeated by the English in 1306. A little further on you pass a lochan (small lake) where legend has it that Robert and his men abandoned their swords to hasten their escape.

Rannoch Moor is a desolate landscape that’s home to red deer, grouse and the Scottish midge. On a clear day, you’re rewarded with widespread views of the surrounding mountains, but when the mist and rain roll in it can feel truly remote.

Glencoe is often considered one of the most spectacular and beautiful places in Scotland. Although the West Highland Way doesn’t actually run through the valley, the climb up the Devil’s Staircase provides spectacular views of Buachaille Etive Mor which stands sentinel at the entrance to the Glen.

The long climb out of Kinlochleven rewards you with a great view at the top. From here the path winds its way through the Mamores before dropping down into the beautiful Glen Nevis. Then it’s a short walk to the finish line in Fort William.

How fit do I need to be?

You’ll need to be reasonably fit to manage consecutive days of walking with a rucksack. However, if you take it at a leisurely pace and employ a baggage service to carry your overnight kit, it should be achievable by most keen hikers. If you’re planning on camping along the Way and carrying your kit make sure you train for the hike with a pack of similar size and weight.

What about accommodation?

There’s a variety of accommodation along the West Highland Way ranging from campsites to guest houses and hotels. Accommodation in some areas may be scarce, and it’s definitely worth booking ahead during peak season (the summer months). If you’re planning a winter expedition, be aware that many accommodation providers close for the winter months.

Although wild camping is legal in Scotland, the Loch Lomond area has restrictions in place. The Park Authority website has further information.

Transport and logistics

You can easily get to the start and finish of the West Highland Way by train. Glasgow is easily accessible from most UK mainline railway stations, or you can fly to Glasgow airport and get a bus into the city centre. From Glasgow, there’s a direct bus and train service to Milngavie.

There are a couple of trains a day back to Glasgow from Fort William. The railway line runs in part alongside the West Highland Way, with stations at Ardlui, Crianlarich, Tyndrum and Bridge of Orchy.

Find out more

The official West Highland Way website has information and advice on the route, accommodation and the natural history and communities of the landscape you pass through.
The Walk Highlands website has a detailed description and photographs of the route.
Harvey maps sell a lightweight single sheet, 1:40,000 scale map of the Way. This saves having to buy multiple OS maps to cover the different stages of the walk.
Various companies offer baggage transfers between your overnight accommodation, with prices around £40-45 per bag. AMS Scotland, Travel-lite and Ginger Routes all offer a similar service, and run from Easter to October.
If you prefer two wheels to two feet, you can also mountain bike the West Highland Way. It’s not an easy ride, and you’ll end up shouldering your bike for part of the route. There are quite a few write-ups by bikers who’ve completed the challenge, including this comprehensive description on the Trail Scotland site. If you prefer some back up support, TrailBrakes offer a 6-day link up of the West Highland Way and the Great Glen Way taking you from Glasgow up to Inverness.

If you enjoyed this post, you may like the others in my Wild Walks series: the Dales Way and the Routeburn Track. Got a favourite walk you’d like me to cover? Get in touch and let me know, or drop a note in the comments below.

Wild Walks: Hiking the Routeburn Track

by Alison Ingleby on September 6, 2016 in Hiking • 0 Comments

Feel like you’ve stepped into Middle-earth? Harris Lake, near the high point of the Routeburn Track.

Voted one of the World’s ‘Top Ten Classic Hikes’ by Lonely Planet, this multi-day hike takes you through some of the most beautiful scenery New Zealand’s South Island has to offer. If you’re visiting New Zealand this is the hike you don’t want to miss out on. Here’s everything you need to know about the Routeburn.

So what is the Routeburn?

The Routeburn is a 32-kilometer walk through part of New Zealand’s Fjordland National Park. It’s a one-way walk which most people hike from east to west, starting from the Routeburn Shelter (near Glenorchy), and finishing at the Divide Shelter (between Te Anau and Milford Sound).

Sounds good – tell me more!

The Routeburn is one of the shortest of New Zealand’s nine Great Walks, and arguably the most popular. It attracts thousands of hikers a year, but even in peak season, you should experience moments of solitude along the trail.

The Routeburn is well signposted and most of the way you’re on a wide, easy path. Take advantage of the good conditions underfoot to admire the views!

How long does it take?

Most people take two or three days to complete the hike, staying in one or two of the DOC (Department of Conservation) huts overnight. If you’re very fit you could complete it in a day, but you’d need to plan your transport carefully to make sure you don’t end up stranded at the far end. Better to take your time and explore the two worthwhile detours off the track: Conical Hill and Key Summit. Both offer stunning views.

Highlights of the Routeburn Track

One of the best things about the Routeburn is that it packs in a lot of variety. This is one trek you won’t get bored on.

Setting off from the Routeburn Shelter, you start by meandering up gently through woodland to the Routeburn Flats. Here the track divides – if you’re stopping here overnight, head right to get to the Routeburn Flats hut and campsite, set in a peaceful, grassy meadow.

For most people, this is a little too early in the walk to be stopping. Continue on the main path as it steepens and zig-zags up through the forest. You gain a lot of height quickly, but the path is good and occasional glimpses of the spectacular views back down across the valley give you motivation to keep going. There are a couple of fun suspension bridges to cross on the way up and a rockier section (with a handrail) near the top.

At the top of the zig-zags, you reach the Routeburn Falls hut; a large hut perched on the hillside about 8.8km from the start of the tramp. There’s no camping, but it’s a popular first night stop and there are great views from the balcony. The walk between this hut and the next (Lake Mackenzie hut) takes 4.5 – 6.5 hours, so you’ll probably end up staying at one or both of these huts.

Looking back down the valley from above Routeburn Falls hut

As you continue beyond the Routeburn Falls hut, you leave the trees behind and enter a more rugged, mountainous landscape. The path gets a bit narrower here, but it’s still clearly marked by red sticks. Don’t forgot to stop occasionally and look behind you to drink in the views. In this Tolkienesque landscape you half expect an Orc to jump out at you from behind the nearest boulder.

The path continues up, past a high mountain lake to the Harris Saddle, where there are a couple of small shelters (overnight use prohibited). This is the high point of the official Routeburn Track at 1,255m and offers breathtaking views of the Hollyford valley and Darran Mountains – definitely a good place to stop and eat your lunch.

If you have time (and enough energy in your legs) I’d definitely recommend the detour up to Conical Hill. It’s a 1-2 hour round trip, but harder going than the main Routeburn track. The path is steep and narrow, and there are a couple of sections of easy scrambling. Your reward when you reach the top is a spectacular, 360 degree vista that not even the best photographer can do justice to.

Back down at the Harris Saddle, continue along the main track down across the exposed Hollyford face, gradually descending to the Lake Mackenzie hut, which nestles among the trees by Lake Mackenzie.

Leaving the Mackenzie Hut, the track climbs slightly before descending to the impressive Earland Falls. From here the track carries on down through beech woodland to Lake Howden Hut, from which it’s a further 3.4km to the end of the Track at The Divide. It’s well worth taking a slight detour (signposted) up to Key Summit, where there’s an informative nature walk round the Alpine wetlands and great views of the surrounding mountains.

Can I just do part of the Track?

If you only have a day or you can’t afford the expense of accommodation and transport services, you can hike the first part of the Track (from the Routeburn shelter) as a there-and-back walk. Go as far as you feel able, but remember you’ll be more tired on the way back. I took a long day and made it all the way to the top of Conical Hill and back, but it was a tough hike! Likewise, if you’re driving down to Milford Sound, it’s worth stopping off at The Divide to walk up to Key Summit; an easy hike that rewards you with amazing views.

How fit do I need to be?

This really depends on your itinerary. You need to be happy carrying a pack with everything you’ll need for the hike and overnight stays, but it’s easy to split the trek into manageable sections. The main track is well maintained all the way and never too difficult.

Hiking the Routeburn outside of the main Great Walks season (which runs from 25th October to 27th April) should only be attempted by experienced, equipped people who are used to walking in the high mountains in winter. Deep snow can hide the route markers and there are over thirty-two avalanche paths that cross the Track.

What about accommodation?

There are four huts and two campsites along the Routeburn Track, owned and maintained by the DOC (Department of Conservation). These must be booked in advance during the Great Walks season and can book out months in advance, particularly for peak times. Wild camping elsewhere on the trail is not permitted.

Facilities at the hut include bunks with mattresses, flush toilets, cold running water and cooking equipment including fuel. You’ll need to take your own sleeping bag, cooking utensils and food.

A bed at a hut costs $54NZD and campsite fees per person, per night are $18NZD (2016/17 prices). You can check availability and book online at the DOC website.

Outside of the Green Walks season, beds are on a first come, first served basis and facilities at the huts are significantly reduced. You’ll need to buy backcountry hut and campsite tickets before you set off – these are available from DOC visitor centres.

Transport and logistics

The Routeburn is a one-way trail, so you’re going to need some help with transport. There are various transport and car relocation services available (all prices listed below are for the 2016/17 season). If you’re looking to do the full Track in a day, then car relocation is really your only option as the bus schedules assume a multi-day trip.

Bus services

Info & Track offer a bus service to take you to the beginning of the Track and pick you up from the end (whichever direction you decide to walk in). From Queenstown, the return trip costs $126NZD per person.
Kiwi discovery offer drop off and pick up from either end of the trail, returning to Queenstown for $119NZD per person.
Tracknet offer transport from either Queenstown or Te Anau for $119NZD. There is some flexibility to include a short stop off in Te Anau if you’re heading back from The Divide to Queenstown.

There is also the option with all of the above to get a return trip to Routeburn Shelter if you just want to do a day walk, or to add in a trip to Milford Sound after finishing at The Divide, before heading back to Queenstown.

Car relocation services

Easy Hike will transport your car from the Routeburn Shelter to the Divide (or vice versa) for $285NZD
Trackhopper will take your car from Routeburn Shelter to the Divide for $264NZD, or from the Divide to the Routeburn Shelter for $230NZD. You may spot Michael or Kiyomi running back home along the track after dropping your vehicle off!

Find out more

The DOC website has a wealth of information on the Routeburn and the other Great Walks. You can download a brochure for the Routeburn Track which includes a very basic map of the route.
If you want a bit more reassurance on the trail, Ultimate Hikes offer a 3 day guided walk of the Routeburn from $1375NZD including basic equipment and accommodation in private lodges (no sleeping bags needed!).
Easyhike has a useful list of 21 tips to make your Routeburn experience an outstanding one.
If you’re tramping the Routeburn during the main (summer) season, the path should be clear, well signposted and easy to follow. You can purchase a map of the trail, which also includes the Greenstone Caples track.

Wild Walks: The Dales Way

by Alison Ingleby on July 26, 2016 in Hiking • 0 Comments

Characteristic Dales’ landscape

Wild Walks is a series of blog posts covering some of my favourite walks in the UK and overseas. The Wild Walks may be short or long, but they all take you to beautiful places and give you moments of solitude.

I’m starting close to home, with a meander through the rural countryside of the Yorkshire Dales. Rolling hills scattered with dry stone walls, a treasure hunt in a church and many places to bathe your tired feet are just some of the highlights of this multi-day trek.

So what is the Dales Way?

A 81 mile ramble through the Yorkshire Dales National Park and the lowland hills of the Lake District, in the heart of Northern England.

Sounds good – tell me more!

The Dales Way begins in the popular market town of Ilkley and follows the rivers and valleys up through the Yorkshire Dales north and west to finish on the shores of one of England’s most famous lakes, Lake Windermere. If 81 miles isn’t enough of a challenge then there are three optional extensions to the walk which run from Leeds, Harrogate and Bradford.

How long does it take?

Most people take between four and seven days, depending on how far you want to walk each day. Your leg lengths may be determined partly by where you choose to stay (see below). The walk is signposted along the route, but these can sometimes be hard to spot so take a map and compass to double check your route.

Wild Walk highlights

Some people choose to end their first day of walking at the dramatic ruined Priory of Bolton Abbey, and it’s easy to see why. If you’re just passing through then there’s a cafe and some handy toilets.

The section between Bolton Abbey and Grassington has some of the prettiest river walking on the route, though on a sunny weekend, you won’t be the only one enjoying it. Look out for the spectacular Linton Falls, just before you get into Grassington.

After Grassington you get your first real climb of the walk, up through the site of medieval villages onto the limestone hillside. This is my favourite part of the walk, with beautiful views across the valley to Kilnsey moor.

After Kettlewell you leave the crowds behind and set off up to Buckden and into the more remote parts of Upper Wharfdale. Hubberholme is a secluded village with a small Norman church that is definitely worth visiting, if it’s open. The crafter of the oak pews left his trademark mouse carved into them – see how many you can find!

Langstrothdale is a valley of solitude. Enjoy the river whilst you can, as you eventually turn off onto open (and boggy!) moorland and climb to the highest point of the route – 520m. As you drop down, you’ll see the famous Ribblehead viaduct in the distance – it’s not strictly on the Dales Way, but you may deviate if you’re staying at the Station Inn.

Back on route, there’s some more boggy moorland to negotiate before you drop down into Dentdale, and civilisation (of a sort). It’s back to the valley and river walking through to Sedburgh and on to the Lune Valley – definitely one of the quieter parts of Cumbria. Look out for the impressive viaduct (well, you can’t really miss it…) just before you cross the M6.

From then on it’s rolling hills (more tiring than they appear), until at last you finally see the waters of Windermere ahead of you. Dipping your toes in the lake is surely an obligatory end to the Dales Way.

How fit do I need to be?

The Dales Way follows rivers and valleys for much of its length. Whilst there aren’t too many steep hills, the terrain can be rough in places and there is a bit of a sting in the tail towards the end. You’ll need to be fit enough to walk for consecutive days and have waterproof boots for the boggy sections!

What about accommodation?

There’s a huge variety of accommodation along the route, from hotels and B&Bs to camping barns and campsites. The middle section, between Grassington and Dent is remote, and places to stay are few and far between, so it’s best to book ahead. You can find a comprehensive list of accommodation on the Dales Way website.

Transport and logistics

As with many long-distance walks, the logistics of getting to the start and back from the finish are not straightforward. If you’re coming from a big city, such as London, Manchester or Edinburgh, the simplest way is to get the train to the start at Ilkley (regular services from Leeds and Bradford) and back from Windermere station (a short taxi ride from the end of the walk). It’s worth having a look at train times in advance for the return leg – the train from Windermere will take you to Oxenholme where you can jump on the mainline up to Glasgow, or down to Manchester and London.

Getting back to the start from the finish is slightly more complicated and will require additional changes in Manchester and Leeds. Alternatively, Lakes Village Taxis can take up four passengers across to Ilkely for approx £90.

If you don’t fancy carrying everything on your back, The Sherpa Van Project offer a door-to-door baggage service from £8 per bag per day.

Find out more

The Dales Way has it’s own website, which has a wealth of information on the route, accommodation and public transport links
Harvey Maps have produced a Dales Way map, which contains the entire route on one lightweight, waterproof map – I’d definitely recommend this if you’re thinking about doing the route.
The Dales Way guidebook by Colin Speakman is the definitive guide to the route.
And if you prefer two wheels then why not try the Yorkshire Dales Cycleway, a 130 mile circular routes that visits most of the dales in the Yorkshire Dales National Park.